From Burma to Myanmar by Lydia Laube
Wakefield Press, 2015. ISBN 9781743053928
(Age: Adult) Recommended. Lydia Laube has been 5 times to Burma, now
called Myanmar, and this book tells of those travels, from the first
two trips with her sister, to the most recent solitary journey (at
the age of 66, I calculated), on a freight ship, the Buxstar,
sailing from Adelaide to Sydney then around the bottom of New
Zealand, up through the Torres Strait, past Indonesia to Singapore
then overland to Bangkok and a short flight to Yangon.
Lydia often chooses unconventional travel - boats, buses, trains,
tuktuks, horse carts and motorbikes - and it seems that half the fun
is negotiating transport and time schedules and language
misunderstandings. There are many misadventures that I am not sure I
could handle as coolly as she seems to. She describes arriving at
one train station in Burma in the early hours of the morning -
'there were six men standing in a half circle around me all telling
me the train to Yangon left at nine in the morning and that I should
wait there until then as there was no taxi. 'No sleeper' they
shouted like a Greek chorus.'
She ends up sleeping in the stationmaster's office under their
continued observation.
Lydia often finds herself in bizarre circumstances, the lone foreign
woman, an object of much curiosity, but she always seems to take
everything in her stride with a cool unflappability. One young
'Friend' who commandeers her transport arrangements attempts to
extort extra money from her . . .
'He said the taxi driver wanted another five thousand kyat. He could
not look me in the eye when he said this so I knew it was a con. He
also entered my room, shut the door and lay on the bed to deliver
the message, which is not done in polite circles, Burma or anywhere.
I paid him the five thousand to get rid of him.'
And that is all she says about it! Nothing seems to unnerve her.
Generally, however, she meets with curiosity, kindness and
extraordinary generosity and helpfulness; people she encounters seem
willing to go out of their way to help her with accommodation,
transport and advice.
In her usual understated way she tells of challenges with plumbing,
toilets and strange unidentifiable food that never seems to get the
better of her appetite. She clearly loves travelling alone, finding
her way without fear, and in the process we share in her adventures
and learn about the many treasures of Burma and other out of the way
places in the world.
Helen Eddy